Thursday, July 26, 2012

Night thoughts on coffee


This week I seem to be going through one of my intermittent bouts of insomnia.  It’s something that I get from time to time for no discernible reason and after having it for a few days I wouldn’t wish it on anyone.  Many friends and acquaintances on hearing of my sleep deprivation are quick to offer impromptu counselling sessions – what’s on your mind, any problems, changes in diet- in an attempt to get to the bottom of the problem.  I prefer to not worry about it figuring that I have to sleep at some point and you know I can use the extra hours to do something useful like write an overdue blog entry.    My only worry about these little episodes is just how much coffee I am going to get through and what is this going to do for my already significant addiction?

I’ve been a coffee drinker since I was a child – family have reminded me countless times of me ordering a coffee as a five year old when all my siblings were drinking hot chocolate.  For as long as I can remember my morning ritual has been to wake up drag myself out of bed, make a moka (a stove top coffee maker) of coffee before attending to anything else.  So great is my love for the buzzy black liquid that I would give up every other beverage (yes including all alcohol) before I would give up coffee.  After so many years of consumption I have to admit that I’m am addict.  If I don’t get my hit in the morning I become listless, get a raging headache and was once horrified to note an employee warning others that it’s evil Raji on a day that I had failed to get my morning shot.

I sometimes think that my leaving the UK really was just a journey to find good coffee – the English really can’t do coffee (I say English as from my experience the coffee in Scotland is pretty darn good.)  My youth was a nightmare of freeze dried instant horror that whatever it is cannot be called coffee.  More recently the country has exploded in Starbucks and the like which is uniformly horrid, over roasted, bitter and watery.  

My adopted home prides itself on its coffee but when I mention Aussie coffee culture to the Italians they look at me as if I’ve been sipping flat whites on the Moon.  The difference as I see it is this:  like Australia coffee in Italy is a lifestyle.  It seems as if everyone begins and punctuates the day with one but what it isn’t is a status symbol.  Aussie cities are renowned for the types of coffee they drink – Melbourne is a flat white town, Sydney the latte while Brisbane is the frivolous cappuccino – oh you drink a tall espresso? Well you’re an inner Melbourne hipster then – and heaven forbid you order the wrong type in the more effete urban centres.  The only coffee faux pas you could make here is to ask for a cappuccino past breakfast.  Baristas have been elevated to a status once reserved for celebrity chefs with anger management issues.  The modern trend has been for the increasing scientification (yes made up word but I can’t think of the real one) of coffee – the Italians go nuts when I describe cold filter or syphon coffee and they really lose it when I tell them about places in Melbourne who will analyse your palate and recommend a single source coffee that matches your taste profile – yes that’s you sensory lab – no wonder Starbucks was a dismal failure.

Here, as the Italians tell me coffee is just coffee, like everything else the Italians consume the emphasis is on quality but it’s not over thought.  You may always buy your favourite brand at the supermarket but on the street you’re not going to avoid a bar because it serves Lavazza and not Illy.  What I’m enjoying about Italian coffee culture is the whole new array of ways to mainline caffeine.  In addition to all the regular cappuccinos (served without chocolate of course,) espressos, macchiatos, etc the Italians have a host of other serving methods – of late given the temperatures I’ve been enjoying cafe freddo (iced espresso,) coffee granitas, coffee gelato but my current discovery and obsession is cafe affogatto – a shot of espresso serves over a ball of vanilla ice cream – it sounds so very wrong but trust me it’s a winner.  The only coffee item I have turned my nose up at is coffee yogurt which really is foul.    

When I came to Italy I had got my addiction down to one a day (admittedly that one was a pint) but over the course of the year my consumption has steadily increased.  There’s my morning coffee, the mid morning between lessons one, the meeting a friend one, the it’s six o’clock and I’ve another three hours of lessons to go one and now there’s the I’m really tired but need to stay awake ones.  If I mentioned my coffee consumption to a doctor in Australia I’m sure the reaction would be – are you crazy? But here six or seven shots a day don’t seem to be anything out of the ordinary – makes you wonder if health advice has more to do with national characteristics than scientific research.  As I write this in my fourth night of interrupted sleep I hope it’s not too long before sleep reasserts itself and I can get my coffee consumption back under control.

Ironically this is being written on tea – made in a pot of course.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Moving on and pastures new


I’ve been resident in Treviso for well over a year now and lately I’ve been having one of those looking back and assessing periods.  After a year I can now say that I’ve become regular face (I don’t think a blow in can ever consider themselves local.)  I’ve got a wonderful bunch of friends and many of the locals greet me on my way around the town (by locals read bar owners.)  I’ve managed to make a living and enjoy the delights of life in Italy.  While it happens so often that it shouldn’t be a surprise but once again it is the urge to bolt has hit and I’m now thinking about leaving my little piece of Northern Italy for pastures new.

Treviso is a wonderful place to live and I do wonder if I am making the right decision but of late the place has begun to seem a bit small.  I’ve begun to miss many of the things that city life brings – a mix of cultures, late night events, exhibitions, live music etc.  One of my colleges, T always says that Treviso is a great place to live but that you need a reason to be here – and I don’t really have one. 
Given that I’ve decided to move on – just where to?  Do I return to Aus now, do I pursue one of the endless teaching positions in China or do I find somewhere else in Italy?  Italy seems the illogical choice given that the place hardly seems a long term prospect and the logical step would be to return to Australia where the sun shines and the people are warm and friendly.  As tempting (and lucrative) as heading to Asia is I’m not sure I should complicate my life further by adding another country to the mix.  But I can’t quite get this country out of my system (as much as I try.)  Living here has been so much fun even with the everyday hardships and the at times loneliness.  So I’ve decided to give life in a city a go and see if I can get the crazy idea of Italy out of my system. 

On announcing my decision to friends a whole host of places where suggested – and not simply for the fact that it  would suit me.  J is lobbing for Rome, T loves to visit Lecce in the south and the shopping is good in Bologna according to L.  Many of my Venetian friends have advised me not to go no further south than Tuscany, warning me of the perils below!  I’ve begun to call it the Tuscan line below which according to many of my friends the country is filled with laziness, inefficiency and corruption.  I’ve never explored the south having only visited Naples a very long time ago and I like the idea of seeing the southern part of the country.  Looking at pictures of Lecce deep in the heel of the country I feel the need to see it but I’m not sure I’m brave enough to go to the scary south alone at least not without knowing a bit about it first.  Rome is ideally located in the middle meaning that I can get to most places in the country in a couple of hours – great for weekends in the south.  After a year in sleepy Treviso will Rome be too big, fast and chaotic? Not to mention expensive.  Bologna has a reputation for good nightlife.  Then there’s always Florence – oh the list is seemingly endless.   

When I think about leaving my comfort zone and my familiar surrounds I wonder if I’ll find such a wonderful group of friends in another place.  In Treviso and Venice I have made friendships with many great people that the thought of our relationships changing to visits rather than weekly or daily meet ups saddens me.  I love meeting J for a daily coffee and chinwag and then there’s T for whom, like me the muppets are not only much loved friends but also a moral compass – who else will I be able to quote muppets too!  Who else can I have long conversations about just who was the best muppet show guest?

I also wonder if I can leave Venice.  My whole reason for heading to Treviso was too be near Venice and after so many visits I’m still in love with the place.  Of late on every visit and every time I watch the light play on the water I think to myself how can I leave this.  There is still the dream of living in Venice but sadly the practicalities defeat me.

So the feelers are out for a job and notice has been given to my landlord – all I need is a job and a place to live.  I feel a mixture of excitement and trepidation about the move.  I’m excited by the thought of exploring new streets and seeing new and wonderful things and trepid about leaving friends and finding my way in a new place.  A student recently asked me how many times I’d moved house and counting it all up it’s been 20!  A place to call home seems as far away as ever.  While the thought of packing up my life, saying goodbye and doing all the hard stuff again in a new place tires me I can’t seem to do any different – perhaps one day I’ll be able to settle somewhere but to be honest I’m not counting on it.